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Singing Scottish Women Demonstrate The Fascinating Process Of Waulking Wool

Waulking wool is the process of dying, shrinking, and softening Harris tweed.

Waulking wool is a finishing technique for newly woven Harris tweed. The Gaelic word for this process is “luadh.” Although no longer in use, several groups perform demonstrations of waulking. After weaving and soaking, participants sing a rhythmic song and thump the material as it travels around the circle. The practice shrinks and softens the material.

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@muir1996

#highlandfolkmuseum #scotland waulking wool: Not a spelling mistake! Waulking (in Gaelic luadh) is the technique of finishing the newly-woven tweed by soaking it and thumping it rhythmically to shrink and soften it – all done by hand in the old days. The songs served to keep the rhythm and lighten the work. Waulking was the final stage in the long, laborious process of producing homespun woollen cloth. The cloth was soaked in what we call “household ammonia” (stale urine!) This useful chemical, known in Gaelic as maistir, helped make the dyes fast, and to soften the cloth. (We must admit: our performances are not competely authentic – we don’t use maistir!) Source: https://www.waulk.org/index.asp?pageid=176756

♬ original sound – Muir1996

Producing homespun wool is a long process, and waulking is the final stage. The liquid traditionally used to soak the cloth is “household ammonia,” also known by its Gaelic name, “maistir.” The soaking helps set the dyes and softens the fabric. Modern performances of this traditional practice acknowledge that they shy away from genuine authenticity. Maistir is stale urine, so they have omitted that for performances, and for that, we smile.

One of the most essential parts of the process of waulking wool is the songs. There are songs with different tempos that control the intensity of the “thumping” and rotation of the cloth. As the material shrinks and gets softer, the leader will measure it and determine “how many songs it will take” to finish. To stave off bad luck, songs are not repeated, and milk offerings are made to a fairy-woman, the “Ioireag.”

Once the waulking of the fabric is complete, participants fold the cloth flat and pat it while singing a final song. Although waulking wool is no longer necessary because of automation, Sgioba Luaidh (Waulking Team) keeps the tradition alive with performances. The women involved try to keep the process as authentic as possible (except for skipping the maistir).

Many cultures hold onto traditional practices to preserve parts of their past. The women who continue the practice of waulking wool are helping preserve Scottish history.

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